(Editor’s note: The following review is part of Arlington resident Frederick Kalil’s “Eatington” feature.)
The second establishment of the owners of First Pub in Winchester, the Heights Pub has been open for four years. Food is no-frills, in keeping with the ambiance and, if it’s allowed to say so, the townie clientele. While the menu looks lengthy at first encounter (turn it over and read both sides), on closer inspection, it wasn’t found to be enormously varied. Characterized as an Irish pub by one of the bartenders, their decision not to offer shepherd’s pie made me quizzical. (Beef stew does turn up as a special.)
Meaty Specials, Sizeable Starters
Other daily specials include a Monday night build-your-own $9 burger and a prime rib ($25.95) on Thursday. Our chosen sides for the prime rib were steamed broccoli (plenty of chopped garlic) and mashed potatoes that met with divided opinions, one Irish diner opining they were too creamy and whipped (“pasty and bland, jot that down”) while they were the favorite item of another, who asserted he could make a meal of them. I found the handsome and hefty cut of rib deserving of popularity and praiseworthy on its own merits without any assistance from the jus it came with.
A Paul Bunyan-sized bowl of thick, house-made clam chowder may not be remarkable, but it was balanced in flavor, not salty or fishy. Pieces of clam, commendably not the chewy kind, were offset by the fair amount of potatoes (and flour). Note to kitchen: a bowl of this size could ideally be served hotter, as it rapidly became lukewarm. The street corn dip is a satisfying mix of ingredients that make sense together, arguably short on spice but with an addictive charred note that encourages repeat scooping. The tortilla chips provided were too thin to support their intended payload.
Taco and Reuben with a Twist
Both hands were required to wrangle the soft-flour spicy shrimp taco, which included a cabbage and carrot slaw (thankfully untouched by mayo), sliced jalapenos (gratefully not green bell pepper), cilantro, a touch of ranch-adjacent sauce dribbled on top and a couple of token greens pressed into service at the bottom of the plate. I girlishly picked off most of the powerfully pungent pickled red onion slices. Happily, the shrimp were juicy and not overcooked. I counted this menu choice a success.
A mountainous portion of tater tots arrived with a thimble of “famous Tot Sauce” akin to an old-school French dressing but tangy and with a demure kick of heat. Resist if you can the tasty but lukewarm sweet potato fries. Ever a temptation, sweeties are typically never as crispy as their paler siblings. A fish Reuben on grill-marked caraway rye was sampled around the table to near unanimous approval. Mexican rice pilaf was felt to be underseasoned, but it and the buttery regular pilaf successfully retained their individuated grains.
Tips and Tipplers
Charbroiled steak tips were appraised as being “exactly what they’re supposed to be” and arrived cooked as ordered. Only a slight increase in flavor landed several of us in favor of the Bourbon version. You may want to approach the extra-hot pickled pepper on the dish with caution and keep something nearby to quench the heat. I can report that the garden side salad was composed of good leafy greens and served with an Italian dressing found to be “light and zingy.”
Our server’s dessert recitation of the chocolate chip lava cookie was accompanied by the nowadays familiar encomium of noncommittal: “People like it.”
I was happy to observe what appeared to be a bustling social scene. Salvaged signage lettering from the former Balich 5 & 10 looms over the inside front entrance. I’m inclined to approve this appropriation of a historical remnant from Olde Arlington. The dark red color of the walls reminded me of the shade of Raisin painted in my front room and made me feel at home, aided in no small part by the amiable crew. I noted happy patrons drinking at their tables and eating at the bar. The playlist features pop-rock favorites from the 1970s through the ’90s. Clearly, the recipe of unpretentious hospitality and a gregarious, lively vibe makes for an inviting zone to settle in and enjoy a comfy hang.
This piece, published Feb. 1, 2026, is part of Arlington resident Frederick Kalil’s “Eatington” series.
